TRADITIONAL SAREES FROM KARNATAKA : TYPES, DESIGNS AND LOOKS WITH IMAGES

Karnataka, one of the South Indian states has a rich history of traditional clothing for women which is silk saree and traditional weaving on it. Karnataka is known as a silk hub of India and the silks are known for excellent quality and superior designs which are dream possessions of every Indian woman. This state is the largest producer of Mulberry silk of India, contributing to 70% of total country’s silk production. Mysore and Bangalore are the epicenters of its silk industries.  A wide range of silks can be found in this place including gorgeous brocades, sleek chiffons and abundant cotton, fashion designers visit Karnataka specially to buy high-quality silks for their designer and traditional clothing. Karnataka Silk sarees are not too heavy in weight and workmanship. 

Many varieties of sarees of Karnataka have obtained Geographical Indication (GI) tags, namely –

MYSORE SILK SAREE

The gorgeous Mysore silk saree is the most popular traditional saree of Karnataka, it is the finest and purest form of silk. Mysore silk is produced by the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Limited (KSIC), the factory was founded in 1912 by the Maharaja of Mysore. Lustrous golden lace at the edge of the saree make, the saree different than others, the pure golden zari stripe runs across the border and elevates the classic and sleek look of this traditional saree. Mysore silk is extremely light weight. These sarees undergo very high standards of production and they remain new and good looking for decades.

BANGALORE SILK SAREE

Bangalore Silk is known for its simplicity, purity, and texture of silk which is produced in the silk farms of Bangalore, Karnataka. The embroideries on Bangalore silk saree are in great demand as the work enhances the already rich texture of the silk. Heavily ornate traditional Bangalore silks are produced in a multitude of colors interwoven with delicate gold threads. Sometimes small beads, crystals and colored stones are used while decorating these sarees. These traditional silk sarees are apt for special occasions like weddings and festivals. Now lots of stylish Bangalore silk sarees are woven - double-colored silk, reversible silk, printed silk, printed crepe silk, all are designed for women of young generation.

MOLAKULMURU SAREE

Molakulmuru is a town in the Chitradurga district of Karnataka, renowned for pure silk handloom saree, the Molakalmuru saree. They received special patronage by the prince of Mysore. These traditional sarees are usually produced in silk and showcase a number of motifs and patterns, usually inspired by nature, like flowers, leaves, trees and others. The most popular motif amongst weavers of the traditional Molakalmuru saree is the temple motif, usually incorporated along the thick border of the saree. Their pleasing geometric shape and interlocking symmetry add a lot of beauty to the garment.

The techniques of weaving a traditional Molakalmuru saree are very intricate and manual interlacement of border & body weft using 3 shuttle looms, called Kuttu Technique.

Varieties of Molakalmuru sarees are - long border Molakalmuru saree which is available in multi-colored checks with a border in a contrasting color, narrow border Molakalmuru saree showcases nature-inspired motifs such as fruits, birds and animals, double border Molakalmuru saree is woven in two threads in contrasting colors.

Dobby looms are used to weave a special sub-type called Butta Sarees, Joining of existing warp ends with new warp ends at pallu body portion, called Chalu Technique. This traditional saree is special because the buttas are featured on both sides of the border, making it the most modern version of the Molakalmuru Sarees.

Molakalmuru weavers also produce silk brocade sarees with extensive zari work on them, these are often included in a bride’s traditional collection.

ILLIKAL SAREE

Karnataka specializes in the unique form of traditional saree, called Illikal saree which are popular across the world. IIlikal saree takes its name from the town of Illikal in the Bagalkot district of Karnataka. The sarees are locally woven using fine cotton/ shiny rayon grounds and silk warp for border and pallu portion of the saree. Traditional Illikal sarees have a very distinctive pallu, it is unique in its very flag-like white stripes. The pallus are woven first and require red and white silk shuttles to get the symmetrical saw blade edges of the stripes.

The classic Illkal sarees are made on older traditional looms equipped with flying shuttles. The different styles of "teni" or spokes at the extremities of the white bands of the pallu are named after their shapes like "hanige" or comb tooth, "koti kammli" or fort ramparts, "tope-teni" or jowar/sorghum-shaped and "rampa" or the shape of a mountain range. The color change of silk pallu requires a join in the warp. The technique is called "kondi" or locking.

UDUPI COTTON SAREE

Traditional Udupi saree is one of the richest variety of cotton sarees in Karnataka. The handloom weaving is a home based cottage industry in Udupi and Dakshina Kannada districts of Karnataka. Udupi sarees exhibit unique class as woven in Frame looms also known as Malabar looms. The traditional sarees with plain solid border and cross border designs add to its uniqueness. The checks sarees with golden or silver threads with contrasting bright pallu and border strengthens its aesthetics and richness.

The uniqueness of the Udupi sarees is its production processes, using best quality combed cotton yarn. The Vat dye is predominantly used for dyeing yarn for Udupi saree due to its excellent color fastness property. Traditional Udupi sarees are famous for its luster and color fastness due to the best dyeing quality and techniques. Entire warp of saree is dyed with one colour and for pallu another type of dye (matching to the body) is applied and weft designs are woven with attractive colors in order to get rich saree pallu. 

KASUTI SAREE

Specific type of embroidery, Kasuti is incorporated in the Karnataki sarees which uses traditional patterns like elephants, palanquins, lotus etc. It is a traditional form of folk embroidery practiced in Karnataka. ‘Kai’means hand and Suti’ means cotton which literally means handwork of cotton thread. Traditional Kasuti embroidery consists of interwoven geometric patterns that make up for this interesting design. The stitch it uses is simple, patterns are formed considering that one can back track and complete the design on either side. This embroidery is also known as Karnataki Kashida. A Kasuti centre was set up in Hubli, Karnataka by the Dept. of Social Welfare, Govt. of Karnataka.

DHARWAR SAREE

Karnataki regular wear collection in cotton is traditional Dharwad sarees, Dharwad is in the middle of Karnataka. Dharwad sarees are handloom weaved in cotton or cotton-silk combination and also in pure silk, the cotton ones for daily wear and pure silk ones for occasions and festivals. This traditional sarees are available in plain and embroidery versions. Sarees are usually in bright natural colors, contrast colors for border which has usually plain lines with small main color in between.

MYSORE CHIFFON CREPE SAREE

Mysore chiffon crepe originated in Mysore, it is a fine opaque crepe silk with supplementary zari borders. These sares are dyed in contrasting colors after that the sarees are weaved. The chiffon sarees have soft, flowy and light texture and a unique tactile look that is rather fascinating.